Mad Dogs!!

There are an outrageous number of wild dogs in Nicaragua. I mean, it´s really quite incredible. Although, most of them are not actually wild (they are domesticated for house protection) they still walk the streets like they have no home. And they follow you and bark crazily at you. I´m in a country full of mad dogs!

In addition to dogs, which I do NOT think are cool. Isla Omotepe is home to the howler monkeys. They are about the size of a small dog, but they cry like a much, much larger animal. When we climbed Volcano Maderas, we heard these guys from the distance and thought there were bears in the forest. Although, we didn´t get to see the Howlers, we did see many more monkeys on a hiking trail near Charco Verde. Monkeys are the best, because they don´t run away when you´re trying to take pictures of them. They understand that this is the way of the human species, we see another animal and we must take our pics before we move on. Monkeys. Are Great.

On our way back to the city of Moyogalpa, we had to wait on the side of the main road for a bus that was hopefully going to pick us up. However, after waiting for about 30 minutes, we were lucky enough to discover the facility of hitching a ride. Not quite hitchhiking! But people that are heading in a clear direction and see people standing on the side of the road do stop and ask is you want a lift. So we got on the back of a pick up truck and rode the rest of the way to Moyogalpa with a mini ice cream cart. Its funny that we should think this is safe. In the US, I would never even DREAM of doing such a thing, but here there is a cerain rhythm. And if you are paying close enough attention to that rhythm, you can tell when things are dangerous because they don´t groove with the locals. We figured it was safe based on vibes, and well, there was another chica sitting in the back with us.

One very noticeable between this and my travels in West Africa is that people don´t really bargain here. When you are given a price, for a taxi ride or a craft, you can be pretty sure that they aren´t offering you twice the actual price. And if you find the price to be too expensive, they won´t chase you when you walk away. Despite the poverty that undoubtedly does exist here, people don´t seem to be desperate for your money. This makes transactions so much smoother because there is no argument involved, or assertion of character to knock of a couple bucks. I mean, that ws really exgausting in West Africa, having to haggle EVERY SINGLE thing I paid for. From hotels to cabs to crafts to food. Jeeez.

Besides being easier for me, I think it speaks volumes about their culture that they don´t customarily bargain. In a nutshell, they are not trying to rip you off. They are incredibly laid back here and are dignified in their own chill. I admire that they are so straighfoward with us without even contemplating the glaring power structure that allows two 21 year olds to spend so much money on a short vacation. Nobody seems to be resentful towards us for being from the US, despite our country's undeniably shady dealings with their country. Of course, I am speaking generally and I don´t speak the language. So it would be hard for me to know if people are being fake with us or if we are actually getting ripped off.

hostel hospitality

Nicaragua is by the far the most backpacker friendly country I have ever been to. In every city we´ve traveled to, there have been cheap and helpful hostels, where we have met tons of nice, like minded, young travelers. The vibe amongst hostel-stayers is really quite unique. Unlike many other non-Western countries, the foreigners actually acknowledge each other's presence and say hello in the streets, offer travel advice, etc. It feels like we are all apart of an adventure and positivity seeking community, temporal although it may be. The notion that this solidarity amongst traveling youths may travel home with us in some capacity is so inspiring in reassuring.

The roughing it attitude of most of the travelers seems to be catching on. Mel and I are taking the cheapest routes possible, because the struggle to stay cheap is just so much more fun. We´ve stopped going to restaurants for all our meals and just buy fruit off the streets and make peanut butter sanwhiches. I do believe a stark low point in the trip has been trying to make sandwhices using a bic pen as a knife...whatever gets you by.

After the second day of surfing, my body just about closed down operations. This sport is so exhausting! And my arms are frustratingly short so getting the paddle speed it takes to really catch teh waves was difficult indeed. Not to mention that Mel ended up with a bruise the size of a frisbee on her stomach.

So we headed off for Isla Omotepe, or the island of two volcanos. Volcanos Concepcion and Maderas stand next to eachother on the same teeny island. Becuase Conception, the larger of the two is still active, fumes spew out the top creating a constant cloud flow around its opening. And if you are close enough, you can actually see the fumes slowly creeping out and away. Truly, its one of the most amazing natural wonders I have ever seen. We ended up hiking up Maderas, which is much more managable at 1,400 meters. Well I say manageable, but by the end of it my legs were a quivering mess and my exhaustion made me feel some kind of stoned.

I had considered myself predestined to be a great hiker, being a New Yoker and all...False. I initially was getting incredibly frustrated with the whole process and wanted to turn back. But applying some brethwork and meditation brought me up and down that mountain and I couldn´t be more greatful. It was so incredibly redwarding to get to that viwing point after all that hard work.

Our hostel on Isla Omotepe is also a farm, where they grow organic coffee. There are a bunch of Western volunteers working on the farm in exhcange for hammoks and meals. Interestingly, I found most of the volunteers were Americans, whereas in San Juan most people were just traveling and were more frequently from Europe or Canada.

nica nica

And I´m back! Backpacking. lol. We arrived in the capital of Managua on Friday and embarked on this this adventure. It feels so goos to be back out in the world! Submersed in learning and trying to wholly take in the vitality of another country. Makes me wonder how I will ever accept a routine that doesn´t allow me to routine travel.

Managua can be kind of a pass-through city for a lot of tourists just becuase there aren´t exactly many sights to see and it certainly is not a walking city. But we spent a few days going to those few sights and just having fun getting there. The getting there IS always the best part. And in Nicaragua, I have to say that I am completely impressed how efficient their transportation systems are. I was under the impression that the Latin American schedule is somewhat, uh, relaxed. But the buses, which are the main form of transport, leave pretty frequently and on time. And they don´t break down! Which is a huge relief for me! The buses in the city are actually really interesting because they are American school buses that have been partially gutted and installed with bars on the ceiling for people to hold on to. We were so proud of ourselves when we finally rode the buses, for some reason, the locals kept telling us that they were too dangerous. Multiple Nicas(the local slang for Nicaraguan) keep warning us about the dangers to the point of exagurated. I´m not sure if they think we can´t watch out for ourselves or they just want to encourage tourists to take the most expensive route.

I did run into a dangerous situation the other night walking to dinner. We were walking along a fairly busy road and a boy , about 15, approaches us asking for money and offering grass oragami flowers. Because we were walking on a busy road, he was able to corner me up against the wall in a way that I couldn´t quite get away from him. He started bumping up against me, still asking for money and finally he leaned in a spit in my face. Thank God that that he walked away at that point because if he had the nerve to spit on me, I´m sure he could have done worse. I still feel terrible about this situation. It takes serious hatred and contempt for another person to do something like that. It saddens me that this boy could feel that way about me. Cearly I understand that he has had a seriously difficult life and maybe my undeserved luck in life warrants that kind of hatred.

There is poverty in Nica, of course. The clearest example I saw in my short stay thusfar is outside the hosptial in Managua. Sick people set up shacks in a lot adjacent to the hospital because there is not enough space for them and perhaps because they cannot afford the stay.

The most interesting thing about Managua, however, isn´t poverty. The presence of an elite Nica class is in such sharp contrast to the poeple living in poverty. The gap between the two is larger than in any other country I´ve been in. There are malls that house United Colors of Bennetton and Roxy stores and then there are barrios with houses made out of metal sheets. I just couldn´t believe it. We went out on Friday night with some friends we made and the nightlife is equally as elite. They have these complexes with very swanky bars, restaurants and discotheques. People drive nice cars and sing along to American pop songs. Girls wear scandelous dresses and drink with there friends. It´s so similar to America. On some level, I find this enlightening to go to anouther country and be presented with similarities to my own culture. As opposed to just differences.

Our first stop outside of Managua was a trek to San Juan del Sur. It was so easy to get here! Just a few bus transfers and short walks and we were in this incredible surfing oasis. There are an astouding number of young gringos (Spanish for white person OR foreigner) walking the streets. And there are bars and restaurants catering to this niche-like backpackers community. It is so awesome to be around so many young people that are doing exactly what I am doing - wandering around just trying to find something more interesting.



The beaches are just gorgeous and I actually went surfing. I think I´m addicted! Although I got pretty banged up before I finally got the hang of it. Mel (my travel partner) has some righteous bruises. Its the same thing about riding on a motorcycle that makes it so awesome. There is nothing separating you from the elements. Getting in touch with the rhythm of the ocean is actually a pretty spiritual experience. We were going to leave San Juan today, but its going to be necessary to just stay here until my body can´t surf no mo´.